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Why is my dragon not eating, lethargic, not very active? My dragon hasn't pooped, what could be wrong? One
of the main keys to catching dehydration/impactions/temperature/UV
issues is paying attention to defecation patterns. All of them
directly effect the dragons’ ability to pass digested materials. Signs of dehydration, impaction, temperature and UV issues include:
Not defecating on a regular basis (every 1-2 days) Lazy eyes, not fully open Less active, sleeping more, dark eyes, "sunken sockets” Decreased appetite Hanging out in den, less social Not very active, listless
A) Dehydration B) Impaction -
If
you find that your dragon is kicking food into the dish of food, try
putting the dish more into the middle of the enclosure or finding
something deeper. This may decrease the contamination of the food.
Contaminated food (feces, dead insects, dried up leftovers, bedding
substrate, etc) should be removed and replaced immediately.
C) Temperature
Too
much or too little heat can cause health issues like: constipation,
dehydration, lethargy, decreased food intake, impactions, stress,
respiratory infections, potential death, etc. Too low of temperatures is one of the largest causes of health issues in captive Bearded Dragons. If your dragon is lethargic, lazy, barely moves around the enclosure, doesn't eat properly, doesn't poop every 1-3 days, it is very likely that your temperatures are too low and the Dragons body systems are having a hard time coping with it. Get a digital temperature gun and monitor your temps, also put your heat sources on a reliable thermostat and let technology do the work for you. Basking area temperatures MUST be 105-110*F, and ambient temperatures need to be 80-85*F. Heat is provided by basking lamps. A temperature gradient within the enclosure must be created.
Get a digital temperature gun and monitor your temps! Kricket's Kritters recommends going to Radio Shack or your local hardware/department store, or visiting www.tempgun.com for digital thermometers and temperature guns.
Put your heat sources on a reliable thermostat/temperature controller
and let technology do the work for you. Kricket's Kritters recommends
going to Radio Shack or your local hardware/department store for single
device thermostats, or trying the Alife 1000w temperature controller,
which can control 3 devices per enclosure. D) UVA/UVB Simulated sun rays (UVA/UVB) MUST be provided by using special fluorescent bulbs designed for use with reptiles such as the ReptiSun 10.0 bulb. NOTE: Do not use 2.0, 5.0, or 8.0 bulbs, they are not strong enough for beardies, only use 10.0 bulbs. The alternative is to use mercury vapor bulbs which emit heat and more UVA/UVB rays. Mercury vapor bulbs are only intended for use in large enclosures and they require appropriately rated ceramic fixtures. NOTE:
Mercury Vapor bulbs generally do not provide enough heat themselves so
additional basking lamps are often required depending on set-up.
- Kricket's Kritters provides UV and heat for 14 hours per
day during summer months and 10 hours during winter months to simulate
seasonal temperature and daylight patterns.
E) Brumation See FAQ Winter weather preparations - What night time temperature is too cold? Is my dragon brumating? What is brumation?
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